The Urban Garden Runway took place in one of our city's newest landmarks, Wesley Place, which played host to the opening event for M/FW '22. Wesley Place's picturesque blue stone church drew a crowd of fashionistas eagerly awaiting the runway show. Rightfully so, the show featured designers such as Acler, Asiyam, Atoir, Buluuy Mirrii, Dom Bagnato, Gorman, Kuwaii, Morrison, Ngali, Torrance and Viceta Wang!
“This is not an easy moment to create fashion. For this collection, I wanted to explore the purpose of fashion, its reason. Its usefulness in society and in culture today. Fashion can have a meaning and a reason beyond utility - to decorate, to attract, is a meaning. But it is important that fashion functions - I am not anti-luxury but I am anti-ostentation.”
The tubular sheath worn by the iconic Martha Graham for her 1930 choreography Lamentation – enveloping the body from head to toe– profoundly impacted visual culture and fashion, extending beyond dance. Several collections by Yves Saint Laurent demonstrate this - from the hooded, diaphanous chiffon dresses he designed in 1969 in collaboration with Claude Lalanne to the indelible modernity of Spring Summer Haute Couture 1985, where a prolongation of fabric over the model's head gave several looks a casual feel. The theme was repeated even in the house founder's last show, fall winter Haute Couture 2002. These precedents – especially Yves' hooded 'capuche' pieces from the mid-80s, which established an iconic key motif for the brand – served as a pivotal point of reference for Anthony Vaccarello as he set out to combine, for Summer 2023, an essential attitude with the ultra-refined, elongated silhouette presented last season. Vaccarello's signature fluidity defines the collection, which is captured through silk jersey knits, and flowing floor-length dresses that evoke elegance, balanced with masculine outerwear, quintessentially Saint Laurent by Vaccarello. Wool coats with pronounced shoulders as well as leather bombers and trenches, sumptuously muted colours pay homage to signature Saint Laurent moments, while legs are bare yet concealed by a relentlessly columnar silhouette. A sense of sophisticated effortlessness runs through the collection, exemplified by sheer tank dresses, cashmere pants, and pyjama-inspired satin dresses accented by gold and wood jewellery.
The latest collection of Alessandro Michele was presented in a deeply personal fashion show to honour his mother and her twin sister, “two extraordinary women who made their twinship the ultimate seal of their existence.” The show represented everything Michele stands for and something different for everyone.
SFW 2021 has just finished and by the end of this article, there’ll be one thing that’ll stick in your mind – nothing other than sustainability in its entire essence. This year, Stockholm Fashion Week largely took the shape of intimate studio visits and a few live shows here and there, with the focus for the schedule centring, of course, on sustainability. However, that wasn’t the sole focus, with their counterparts of technology and creativity also taking bits and pieces of the Swedish cake.