It's another captivating fashion collection from Maria Grazia Chiuri!
Her latest work celebrates the iconic Joséphine Baker, a boundary-breaking African American entertainer who made an indelible mark on both French and international culture. From her memorable performances at Folies Bergère to becoming one of the first Black women to star in a major motion picture (1927's Siren of the Tropics!), this trailblazer inspired generations with her flamboyant costume ensembles that defined Jazz Age fashion.
With giant portraits illustrating a new pantheon of women, Dior's runway was presented as a scenographic narrative conceived by artist Mickalene Thomas.
An exploration of Art-Deco fashion inspires the captivating collection and one of the era's most famed figures is woven through a series of spectacularly constructed garments, resulting in a line defined by elegance, refinement, and modernity. Once again, Chiuri's latest collection evokes the 1920s opulent glamour by immortalising Dior's luxury.
She was really an incredible, empowered woman.
With an exquisite taste for fabric, Maria Grazia Chiuri breathed new life into the flapper dress of the 1920s. The muted colour palette was highlighted with luxurious velvet and shimmering gold satin, creating a signature look that oozed splendour and sophistication. Delicate embroidery, sequins, and beading added further allure to what is now considered timeless style at its finest!
In keeping with the less-is-more philosophy, she adapted classic motifs to be streamlined, lighter, and easier to wear while emphasising practicality and femininity.
This 61-piece collection was a masterclass in modern elegance, featuring pieces that blended classic detailing with contemporary elements. Think bias silhouettes, crushed fabrics, and cowl necklines hidden underneath sumptuous velvet dressing gowns, coats, and capes – all designed to offer maximum versatility for the fashionista on the go.
Despite the challenge of choosing a favourite, I couldn't resist mentioning the gold cloque midi suit and structured jacket inspired by the 1947 bar jacket, but without corsetry. Dior's off-the-shoulder ballgowns were also given a more versatile aesthetic, with creased satins in slate gray, pale gold, and liquid silver. Unlike the original design, no corsetry or volume was included.
More clean, less volume, more my attitude.
Chiuri consistently showed meticulous tailoring in her ready-to-wear collection: double-breasted grey skirt suits, tuxedo coats with minimal embellishments, long, slim silhouettes in black juxtaposed with velvet were all on show. Embroidered, ankle-strapped platform sandals with ankle slings were the only ornaments on the feet.
In my view, the collection reaches beyond striking silhouettes and artisanship, reflecting the profound social and cultural shift that followed World War I, which dramatically affected fashion. The development of a convenient, progressive wardrobe was rapidly becoming a popular trend among women during this time period, as women began to wear simplistic styles never before seen on them.
There is no doubt that Chiuri is encouraging us to embrace comfort and natural beauty as feminism moves from formality and toward comfort, and Dior's new collection is a reflection of those synergies of decades past.