The womenswear collection by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons captures the intimate relationship between the raw and the sensual as the juxtaposing qualities intertwine.
Throughout the collection, discord and paradox are constantly in play, shifting between different visions and different realities. In a series of dresses torn against the body, paper-based fabric mirrors the décor of a panopticon, representing a domestic sphere.
There is an interrelationship between the raw and the sensual, between delicacy and roughness, an emulsification of contrasts. The collection plays constantly with dissimilitude and paradox, shifting between different visions, separate realities.
Its simplicity is expressed through the use of a colour palette that is best described as industrial, with hints of pastels evoking vulnerability and conveying a sense of reality. Minimalism and decoration, occasion and every-day, are explored polarities – as in life, these unanticipated dichotomies are inextricable.
The collection is a cross-pollination of day and evening wear in delicate pastel tones, opera coats fused with leather jackets, and tailoring that borrows trains of fabric. At the same time, a notion of Prada uniform, in bodysuits of poplin shirting in industrial colours, denotes a minimalised reality. Accessories have their surfaces patinated, pressed, and wrinkled, used in the show to reinterpret archetypal and classic Prada handbag silhouettes.
Dresses in delicately sheer, unrestrained slips with lace necklines are paired with prime and tailored poplin bodysuits. Slouchy knits are torn open at the seam, revealing deliberately crumpled layers. The joints of a strapless mini dress or business-like skirt suit wrinkle as if the models had lived in them for hours.
To accompany the show, Prada invited the viewpoint of film director Nicolas Winding Refn to conceive an experience around the collection. The collaboration resulted in an immersive installation; the runway show's physical environs, in collaboration with AMO, provided an opportunity for observation and intersection between two creative spheres – an expansion.
At the centre of the creative exchange sit a series of short films by NWR, exploring women's lives and the scope of fluid modern femininity – a subject that has always fascinated Prada. These films are presented physically to the audience within the installation at the Deposito of the Fondazione Prada. Through raw apertures punched through the décor, fragments of NWR's shorts may be observed, giving the audience a glimpse of what's outside.
There is a sense of the life of women… Life and humanity crafts the clothes — not superficial embellishment, but traces of living, leaving marks. This idea of clothes shaped by humanity excites us.
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