New York Fashion Week was anything but boring this autumn/winter, as the diverse collections were a feat of unparalleled innovation across the board. Invoking unique reference points ranging from domesticated animals to fantasy novels, NYFW announced the mood du-jour this season as fairytale chic.
Read on to uncover our highlights of the week.
Anna Sui is a designer we’ve had our eye on this year, and her latest collection is an ode to Factory Girls far and wide. Drawing inspiration from 1960’s rockstar haunt The Peppermint Lounge, this preppy nightwear collection has all the trending mod favourites that are popular online. Showing a whirlwind of satin babydoll dresses, fluffy fantastical coats, and a selection of boots we’d kill to have in our possession, Sui clearly has a keen eye for aesthetics.
However, the finer rabbit-eared hat and cowboy boot details make the collection feel current, as Anna Sui has created looks that are an iconic blend of her signature style updated with modern Y2K touches. Incorporating fabrics such as silk slips, lace gloves and tights, metallic coats, and fine furs, as well as Gen Z-approved accessories like big jewels and tiny bows, her pieces are perfect to mix and match this cosy season.
Elsewhere, other designers conjured collections that can only be described as dark fairytales.
Rodarte’s silver banquet tables lined with candles and fake fruit were the perfect backdrop to their gothic fantasy collection. Elegant, floor-length gowns were married with crowns, veils, and bouquets as headwear, contrasted against their Morticia-inspired all-black velvet bustiers and lace nightgown looks. Accessories included fairy wings, macabre makeup, and sparkly tinsel accents.
Equally as imaginative was Collina Strada’s Please Don’t Eat My Friends collection, which transformed the wearer into part-human, part-animal fantasy novel creatures. Donning pointed ears, beaks, and snouts, Strada paired these facial features with traces of fairy-core staples. Lace camis peaked out from under sheer dresses and pastel boots, while mini-skirts were layered over midis and accessorised with studded low-slung belts and fish-bone chokers. The result? A collection that goes beyond the bounds of reality completely, and for that feat alone, we’re suitably impressed.
Sandy Liang gave the coquette girlies everything they wanted this season – and created a dreamy collection that made NYFW that much more ethereal, combined with a dark academia twist. Classics such as ruffled mini-dresses, large, bright bows, and snug leg-warmers were the stars of the show, shaded in hues of white, pastel pink, and dark browns and reds. Flowers were also innovatively weaved throughout, with roses reconceptualised as eyewear and chokers (which exploded online just days after the collection premiered). It was one of the most wearable collections of the week, so expect to see these looks IRL – they’re too gorgeous not to wear!
Overall, coming out of NYFW, we saw some varying and unique trends emerge, such as pantless looks, egg bras, banana tops, and textured dressing. Among them, our favourite round-ups of the week include decade-inspired dresses, unique headwear, layered silhouettes, and tailored workwear.
One thing, however, is abundantly clear: statement dressing is back and better than ever, baby!
Whether you’re conjuring the aesthetic of a goth bride, a fantasy protagonist, or a social media it-girl, now is the time to be bold, individualistic, and bizarre in how you dress – New York Fashion Week said so!
For those who love to dress like a Tim Burton film married a Club Kid, this NYFW was for you. It has set the record for propelling some of the most otherworldly A/W collections to date, and that same playfulness is the energy we’re taking into 2023!
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If you liked this feature on New York Fashion Week, you might also like our feature on Copenhagen Fashion Week.