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June 24, 2022

The Week That Was: Men’s Milan Fashion Week Highlights

Phoebe Blogg
The Week That Was: Men’s Milan Fashion Week Highlights
Seasonal Staples, Sculptural Silhouettes and Seductive Suits

Having officially wrapped earlier this week, Men’s Milan Fashion Week made a swift yet impactful return to the Italian city. Hosting an impressive 25 fashion shows, 24 presentations and its very first digital only day, this year’s Men’s Milan Fashion Week made previous years appear quite average.

From a reggae inspired, vibrant hued opening to a digitally-streamed closing , this year’s Milano Fashion Week saw designers present an expressive, highly - diverse variety of garments, which attendees undoubtedly adored.

Kicking things off was Dsquared2, who opened the seasonal event with a rather colourful array of garments. Dsquared2 founders and leading designers, Dean and Dan Caten were inspired by 1970’s Jamaica, and it's fusion with rebellion, a free spirit and an open heart.

Determined to channel the collections 70’s inspired aura even further, the Caten brothers chose to join forces with the Bob Marley Foundation.

Granting the brothers permission to reproduce a portrait of the Reggie singer, across both Dsquared2 T-Shirts and beach totes, brought a refreshingly new collaborative pairing to the Milan runway. This unique partnership also saw Dsquared2 dip their usual layering combos, into a culturally colourful palette.

Making an equally impressive return to the runway was no other than, the city’s great EMPORIO ARMANI.

In usual Armani style, fine tailoring was front and centre. Featuring everything from blazers, to trousers and the odd button up, this Spring/Summer collection was as fung shui as it gets. Despite opening with a denim-esque dark blue palette , the collection quickly converted to more monochromic, pastel hues. With a delicacy of experimental prints, featured throughout, this season the Armani man is being encouraged to dabble in cooler shades.

Emporio Armani
Emporio Armani
Giorgio Armani
Giorgio Armani
Prada
Prada

Over at PRADA simplicity reigned supreme as Miuccia Prada – along with Co-Creative Director Raf Simons – encouraged consumers to find context and value in the simple and streamlined. Opting to hone in on the finer details, saw Miuccia and Simons debut a SS23 collection filled with streamline designs and intricate garment enhancing additions – think exaggerated shoulders, cinched waists and metal detailing.

Opting to do things at their own pace – which so happens to be quite on brand for the Italian fashion house – MOSCHINO delivered a Spring/Summer collection quite like no other.

Being the creatively curious designer he is, Jeremey Scott proved once again as to why he is the perfect fit for the rather eccentric, Italian brand.

Crafting Moschino’s entire SS23 collection to reflect and celebrate the life of talented artist Tony Viramontes, saw Scott collaborate with Viramontes estate to produce a rather bright, artistically driven menswear collection.

Capturing the motifs, faces and figures of the artist’s work, whilst incorporating Moschino’s vibrancy encouraged Scott to play with shapes, silhouettes and of-course, the odd pop of colour. The result, a strikingly meaningful tribute and selection of garments which celebrate the talents of both Viramontes and Scott.

Bringing an added layer of excitement to day three was British designer Jonathan Anderson. Despite this being Anderson’s first ever Milano debut, his eponymous JW Anderson label received a warm runway welcome.

Held in a warehouse in the city’s north east, Anderson’s rather grungy choice of location capitalised on the designers youthful, 90’s – esque theme.

Taking inspiration from Philip Ridley’s ’90s play The Pitchfork Disney, - which he performed in the earlier days of his aspiring actor career – Anderson blended his love of shock-value with his passion for design.

With skateboards and BMX broken handlebars strapped across the chest, T-shirts inset with lids of opened tin cans, and the odd barcode peeking out from torn-away denim, Anderson definitely gained and retained his audience’s attention.

A notable mention also goes out to Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana and Versace who being at the level of international recognition they are, produced nothing but an inspirational dose of how the men of the world will be dressing not just next season, but the many that follow.

Looking ahead, Men’s Milan Fashion Week has not only provided both clients and consumers a slice of the future of menswear but a wider insight of where the industry is moving as a whole.

With technical advancements, sustainability concerns and ongoing health crisis’s, the question of whether the city’s next Fashion Week will be held in the Metaverse, may not be a question at all.

Stay tuned for more highlights, wrap up’s and designer spotlights, as Casper brings you the latest news from the industries Global Fashion Week’s.

Versace
Versace
Moschino
Moschino
JW Anderson

Images GORUNWAY.COM

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