This AW ‘23-24 season, Dior took deep diving to a whole new level as Maria Grazia Chiuri richly combined the iconic brand’s history with the legacy of three extraordinary French women. The result? A collection that was both artistically and aesthetically immaculate.

Channelling counter-cultural figures of French history, the latest Dior show was an homage to the women that iconised it, including the house founder’s sister Catherine Dior, and French singers Édith Piaf and Juliette Gréco. Described as women who were known for being “rebellious” and “at once strong and fragile,” their energy surrounded the show itself, with haunting organ music and dark lighting adding to its bewitching charm.

Based on a reinterpreted take of 1950’s Dior, floral motifs were imbued in a darker, more urban aesthetic filled with romantic silhouettes and eyeliner-clad faces, all trending autumn motifs this season. Form-fitting dresses were beautifully crafted in hues of deep burgundy, blue, and black, with accents such as mottled fabric or metallic and embroidered threads adding an ethereal, yet potent edge to the pieces.  

Three-piece sets dominated the collection this season as bralette, cardigan, and maxi-skirt ensembles were deconstructed with puffy sleeves, crinkled fabrics, and woollen socks. Here, the organza, wool, and silken numbers were dressed down with a few masculine touches, such as oversized trenches and puffers, while drop-crotch slacks were juxtaposed beautifully against the delicate pointed toe, leather glove, and sleek headband details. In turn, this conjured a collection that plays with both femininity and masculinity, much like the revolutionary muses it was inspired by.

Just as otherworldly was Dior’s set design, created by Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos. Her intricate backdrop embedded the stage in an octopus-shaped installation comprising tentacles lit up by thousands of tiny lights, which submerged the collection in a sea of colour and illumination.

Spectators of the showcase were suitably impressed, which included everyone from actors such as Elle Macpherson and Maisie Williams to K-Pop stars such as Jisoo. Charlize Theron was particularly enthralled with the line, affirming that ‘she [Chiuri] loves women. And in loving women she understands that a woman is feminine but also masculine. We’re vulnerable and we’re strong. We’re contradictions. We’re a little bit of everything, and I love that she has that wisdom.’

Malleability grounded this ready-to-wear collection, offering a kaleidoscopic mélange of influences to be inspired by this year. Now is the time to be fluid, minimal, and sexy as Dior invites us to channel our inner 90’s it-girl this season.

If you liked this piece on the Dior Autumn/Winter ‘23-’24 Ready-to-Wear Collection, you might also like our piece on New York Fashion Week.