From the ancient to the ancestral, London’s latest A/W ‘23 season was a commanding celebration of the female form. Read on to discover our highlights from London Fashion Week, which offered an enchanting encapsulation of reimagined womenswear.
The chronology of female fashion dominated London FW this season, and pagan goddesses were the opening point of reference for Simone Rocha’s runway this year. Incorporating her Irish heritage into the collection, Rocha opted to create a folkloric reconceptualisation of Lughnasadh, which is a Gaelic holiday that welcomes the harvest season in Irish culture. Symbols of the sacred littered her celestial gowns, noted in her use of raffia intricately braided throughout or employed to booster her tulle silhouettes. Red ribbon finishings were placed over necklines and beneath models eyes like teardrops, referencing the sacrifices of the celebration.
Remnants of babydoll thematics gave the collection a modern feel, creating a poignant juxtaposition against Rocha’s gothic sequined details and crystal embroidery. This is accented through her subtle use of curls, dainty bows, and silk accessories, which she paired with ballet flats and stark, blood red lips. Here, women are rendered into figures of divine origins, all the way from their ribbon-crowned heads to vine-wrapped toes.
This history shifted to more recent times with Connor Ives’ 90’s and 00’s inspired collection, which added a cinematic twist to London Fashion Week. Inspired by Thomas Anderson’s 1999 film Magnolia, his collection is an exploration of it-girl archetypes. His Glasto Girl look presented us with a Kate Moss-inspired outfit of a faux fur coat and sky-high boots, while a deconstructed bride and groom ensemble closed the show. Inspired by the Parent Trap, the earthy dual-toned tux and top-hatted wedding dress (featuring a ballooned silhouette) took us right back to the 90’s!
Embroidered flowers also featured heavily throughout, including low-rise skirt and top ensembles and embellished corsets laced with blossoms. This added touches of ethereal intricacies to the collection, and with long fringes and crystal jewels paired with colourful boots, Bella Hadid’s influence was very much felt throughout the show. Plus, with Ives’ sustainable use of recycled jersey, denim, and tencel to construct his looks, it’s safe to say that we’re obsessed!
Nensi Dojaka, a Gen Z favourite, captured the modern woman in a powerful epilogue of a mini-history of women’s fashion through the ages. Evoking the sensualism of figures such as Sade, her LBD-esque pieces were paired with dramatic make-up and slicked back tresses, resulting in a sophisticated showcase sported by supermodels Caroline Trentini, Mariacarla Boscono, and Imaan Hammam.
Dojaka’s dainty looks are underscored with Y2K notes, including intricate strappy details, flared cut outs, and delicately placed tulle features. This, she opted to marry with black blazers, tiny chokers, and pointed toe heels, adding a touch of sophistication that rounded out each look perfectly. Both sleek and sexy, mark our words – all black looks with a touch of red are going to be more popular than ever this year!
Although we were graced with touches of trending menswear gems such as Moncler’s glamping spectacle, S.S. Daley’s nautical sailor-inspired looks or Saul Nash’s silhouetted ski-wear, this A/W season was for the girls, and we’re absolutely obsessed.
While classic cuts such as oversized lines and fierce tailoring are well-worn favourites, it's invigorating to see bolder, pop-culture inspired dressing. At the moment, we’re loving how embroidery, textured fabrics, and grungy colour palettes have taken the floor this season.
London Fashion Week has forecasted an influx of outfits inspired by iconic cultural zeitgeists to take hold this year – we can’t wait to see what develops from such an immersive fashion week!
If you liked this piece, you might also like our recap of New York Fashion Week.
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